Kayaking the Upper East Fork of the Owyhee River
Low Water Doesn't Mean Low Fun
A week from our launch date the weather forecast was optimal. Though our group size had dwindled down, nearly in half, the six remaining adventurers were excited to be in the canyon lands under blue skies with 70 degree temps. But, like the dropping number of boaters, the forecasted temps began to plummet right up to the point that I began to wonder if we shouldn't pull the plug on the trip; below freezing nights, snow, rain, more snow, wind-all of which sounded more like ingredients for a spring ski tour-not a spring kayak trip.
As I turned my truck's ignition off at the put in, a snow squall was approaching with 10-20 mph winds. I alternated between packing my AIRE inflatable kayak and starting my truck to warm my hands by the heater vents. The time came for us to shove off and though there were some reservations, we figured suffering through some cold days and nights would put hair on our chests and make for a good type 2 fun kind of adventure. So, we launched into the meandering willowy waters of the upper East Fork of the Owyhee river.
Nature's Symphony
A volcanic rim acts as a portal into the canyons of the East Fork; the flat land of the Duck Valley disappears instantly being replaced by swift water, boulder gardens, and vertical walls. Due to the cold temps prior to our launch, the river's spring runoff had abated to a mere 650 cfs. Our original plan involved 3 rafts, a few IKs, and two hardshell kayaks. Now, we were a group of four IKs and two hardshell kayaks. The sun stayed away for most of the day. Even though I was in a dry suit, I shivered constantly. I had dressed with the moto I use for ski touring, "start cold and warm up with the exercise."
We bumped our way down the rapids with one serious mishap-a hardshell kayaker following an IK too close got pinned sideways between two rocks. What could have been a very bad situation worked itself out and no one was hurt. Rafts would have never made it down the initial stretch of whitewater at these flows; had we taken even small rafts, we would have been struggling to pull them over the exposed rocks and would have likely punctured tubes.
Thankfully, the sun came out and though I continued to shiver, the radiant energy and gorgeous light lifted my spirits. Once in camp, I set up my tent and crawled into my sleeping bag to get my core warm. We enjoyed dinner and a few laughs and hit the hay early thanks to the freezing temps returning once again.
My 50 year old "tiny tanks" (bladder) get me up at least once a night. As I went to do my business, it was cold but the stars were out and the scene was beautiful. When I woke again early in the morning I was puzzled by the strange noise that sounded like something scratching or sliding down my tent. I opened the fly to find a few inches of snow had fallen! It had been a brief storm as the sun was lighting up the distant canyon wall with golden light. Though cold, the day held promise for warmer, better, weather.
Each day we needed to cover 15 miles. We had accomplished this goal on our first day and were seated very close Garat Gorge, home to some of the best whitewater on the upper East Fork! Within a mile or two the canyon walls closed in on us and large boulders, at first glace, appeared to block any downstream movement. With a little scouting and slow approaches, we found lines through most of the rapids in the gorge with only one portage at Raft Slide rapid. Garat was amazing with big slides, serpentine runs, all set within a narrow canyon with both walls extending vertically from the waters edge.
Day three started with a "BANG!" While dragging a highly inflated IK to the water's edge, the exterior shell tore 5' in length. I was down river getting set for the wide landscape shot and missed the action, but, now our group was down one boat. Luckily, we were able to use the "patient" as a tow vehicle for the remainder of the trip. This day was scenic with only minor whitewater before pulling in to the confluence of Deep Creek for camp.
Our second to last day involved some fun boulder gardens with rocks that we easily cruised around, but wondered what they'd be like at the 5000 to 9000 cfs level which some folks have run this section of river. We approached Owyhee falls with concern and trepidation but portaged it without any issue. The canyons on day four were some of the most beautiful I've paddled through and was thankful to have had the low water to peacefully float through them without stress or concern. This day was long thanks to the portage and we were all eager to set up camp. A few in our group tried to pull over early, but, we pushed on until we found a nice beach and took an evening hike up to the canyon rim.
Day five started with heavy hearts-we didn't want the adventure to end. From frigid days and a snowy night, to sun filled radiant fun and a popped boat, we'd be enjoying the Idaho canyon and wished we could have continued on down river. Finally, Crutcher's Crossing arrived, we pulled over, broke down our gear and waited for the amazing 4x4 rigs of Barker's River Shuttles to pick us up and take us back.
